We are asked this question almost daily and it is a difficult thing to answer accurately in just a few minutes. To help answer this question we have posed a series of questions and possible answers to help get to the core of what type of sword you need. This document is relevant to anyone purchasing a sword from medieval-fightclub or any other sword producer or supplier.
To start, we have found there are so many reasons people buy swords.
e.g.

Re-enactment and living history

Re-enactment combat

For mock/stage combat

Collecting blade shapes

Collecting weapons from movies etc

Collecting antique swords

Cutting or Chopping demonstrations

For mock or real ceremonies

Film and TV props

Western Martial Arts

In all likelihood you already know what type of sword you want but you probably also want to know if it is suitable for your needs. To work that out please read on.

What do you want it for?
If you require a stage prop or you are a collector then the choice is easier. Any sword in our range is suitable as a wall hanger and most will stand up to being slapped flat on flat on stage with little to no damage. However if you required a sword that can handle heavy combat then the requirements change dramatically. Basically you need to decide if you need a ‘beater’, a ‘hanger’ or a ‘cutter’.

What is your budget?
Budget is always the single biggest factor. Quality tempered blades of 100% historical designs with no imperfections can cost a small fortune. If these factors are of extreme importance to you then you might be looking at anywhere from $500 – to many thousands of dollars. However, a good quality sword does not need to be expensive. Even if you have less than $500 to spend, we understand that these factors are still of importance however a balance can be met between price and quality with only the smallest of sacrifices.

Tempered or not?
The following is purely my opinion formed from over two decades of experience in practical sword fighting. I don’t claim to be an expert on the metallurgy of swords but here are some home truths about blades that I am happy to share. Steel tempering is almost an exact science; however the application of tempered steel will always vary greatly and therefore continues to remain a mystery to the average sword jock.
It might sound absurd but for some situations a non tempered blade will appear to be stronger and last longer.

If you have any doubts and a spare tempered blade you might like to use the appropriate safety equipment and setup a practical experiment by getting an equivalent weighted iron bar and hitting the sword onto the bar (or vice versa).

Try simulating an abusive combat hit that you would expect on the side or flat of the blade. One of three things will happen.
i) it will wobble and return to the original shape, indicating an almost perfect temper.
ii) it will break or snap, indicating that the blade was over tempered.
iii) it will bend, indicating the blade is under tempered or not tempered at all.

Try simulating an abusive combat hit that you would expect on edge of the blade. One of these things will happen.
i) the edge can ‘blow’ or small chips/chunks will be knocked out of the edges. Indicating the blade has an almost perfect temper.
ii) the blade will fracture, crack or snap. Indicating the blade was over tempered.
iii) the edge will dent, indicating that the blade had a low or no temper.
iv) nothing will happen, indicating you have a near ‘magical’ sword. Seriously, this indicates a very good quality blade and we recommend you remove the legendary sword from the experiment immediately and treat it like gold.

Obviously I am not suggesting that it is better to use an iron bar over a well made sword but I have seen plenty of expensive well tempered blades break against an iron flat bar S.L.O. (sword like object). It can be a very humbling and annoying situation for the re-enactor who has purchased or made the perfect tempered blade to have it broken on an S.L.O.

NOTE: This test would have more devastating results to the test blade if we were using two tempered blades. This article was not designed to compare different temper strengths. For general use I recommend a Rockwell Hardness Cone (RHC) value of approx 42-45. This level of hardness we find is good balance for a blade expecting to deliver and receive severe punishment. A higher tempered sword (48RHC) with a thick edge can be destructive to other swords. We usually carry a couple of swords that by strength and design would be considered "sword breakers".

What sort of edge do you need: Sharp or Dull?
If you require a sharp edge for cutting then a high temper (RHC-50 or higher) will give you the best edge retention. If you require/desire a dull edge and you plan to use it edge on edge then durability will be gained with a wide edge and a low temper or no temper in the blade.

What type of metal?
We recommend and stock blades made of high carbon steel. Stainless steel swords are (in our opinion) for hanging on walls or other long term displays where a constant polish is required. In some cases stainless steel swords can retain a better edge but overall they are too brittle for general purposes. In many cases the carbon steel will have the smallest amount of chromium (0.7%) to help resist corrosion and can still manage the balance of shine and durability of other carbon steels.

If using for combat, how will you strike it: Edge or Flat of the blade?
You might have gathered by now that tempering a blade has different qualities depending on if you plan to hit on the flat or the edge. In some cases this factor alone should dictate the type of sword blade you purchase.

Tang type, What does it mean?
A sword’s tang is a term that describes how a blade is fitted to the handle. The strongest tang type is “Full Tang” and our full tang swords have been forged as part of the blade and then sandwiched between two halves of the handle. Usually you can see the base of the blade edge exposed on the side of the handgrip. The tang should penetrate right through the pommel and be peened over at the end. The most common tang style is called encapsulated or hidden where the blade becomes a thin “rats tail” to fit within the handgrip. While many of the hidden tang swords will have blades that are suitable for combat you could find that over time the hilt may eventually loosen. As with all tools, a sword is only as strong as the weakest part and therefore where possible I would always recommend using a full tang sword for any kind of sword on sword combat from simulated full contact to theatrical. Never USE a push tang sword as the blade is prone to becoming a projectile weapon.

Balance, how important is it?
Very! But let’s be clear from the onset that I am not talking about some required yet mythical physical balance point that relates to hand-spans etc from a predetermined point on every sword as suggested by some sword suppliers. This form of balance may be partially correct and practical for 'long swords' but for early medieval and ancient swords there is no such property. I am however referring to a swords ‘harmonic balance’ which is basically the point in the grip that vibrates the least. However ‘harmonic balance’, ‘centre of balance’ and ‘pivot point’ are beyond the needs of all but the expert swords-person and also beyond the scope of this document. It should be noted that overall balance will vary greatly from blade type to blade type.

Does brand matter?
There will always be a number of quality sword makers that occasionally release completely useless wall-hangers and by the same token there are less reputable makers who can occasionally craft awe inspiring swords. In my opinion brand preference can be very trivial and sometimes a downright hindrance when comparing different styles of swords.

Are all Medieval-Fightclub swords mass produced?
No, all of the practical and full tang swords are individually hand made in Asia. In some cases and for the sake of efficiency our factories use manual production lines. But to be completely truthful, yes some of our cheaper swords of the common designs (esp movie replicas) are mass produced and often completely by machine.

How will you store your sword?
Storing your blade in a scabbard for long term is not recommended, corrosion you can’t see can’t be repaired. The scabbard may store moisture and thus encourage further corrosion. Some wooden scabbards will warp if not stored with the blade in them. Storing a sword in a dry environment will ensure a long life of the blade. For more information on sword care please see our article here.

Final summary
As you can tell there is no true correct answer to buying a cheap functional sword however today’s tempered full tang ’beaters’ will far exceed their historical counterparts for durability, in fact the same could be said for almost every functional sword in our range. For heavy sword combat your ideal choice for a long lasting blade should always include a solid edge, thick blade and a good tempering with a full tang. However your conditions may allow you to use a lighter, cheaper sword, if you still have any questions or concerns it is always best to just ask us.

How can I tell the combat readiness of Medieval-fightclub items?
Medieval-fightclub battle test all weaponry that comes into our warehouse even when it clearly isn’t battle ready we feel it is important to be able to give you an honest view of each weapon. Please look for the "Combat Readiness Score" for an simple description of how combat ready our tests show that item to be.

Swords with a score of:

1 - 2 indicates unworthiness for combat. Although it might look great, it may fall apart in its first real combat.

3 - 4 suggests that upgrades to the item are required otherwise expect it to deteriorate.

5 - 6 it can be used in battle but has a known weak point under severe force, usually at the hilt or the crossguard itself.

7 - 8 a strong sturdy item that will tolerate most situations, usually requires dulling.

9 - Blades have a full tang and a blunt edge with a low temper, ready for use.

10 - Blades have a full tang, perfect temper but may require dulling of point.

Helmets and Armour with a score of:

1 - 3 indicates unworthiness for combat. Although it might look great, it may fall apart or cave it in its first real combat.

4 - 6 it can be used in battle but has a known weak point under severe force and is likely to dent.

7 - 8 a strong sturdy item that will tolerate most situations. May require additional strapping or padding.

9 - Ready to use, but for helmets we recommend adding padding.

10 - Ready to use without need for modifications or helmet padding. 100% battle ready guaranteed.